Note Sender grounds through threads Installing an Auto Meter.So I said I would post on the ammeter to Voltmeter conversion, so here they are.So I guess the small black wire is the common ground, and then the small yellow wire is the voltage probe. The light for the gauge should be wired into the dimmer circuit for the interior lights.This type of gauge tellsnbsp How to wire voltmeter gauges on a car. Or just wire it to the alternator directly. You could take it from the cigar lighter, radio, HVAC circuit, etc. You can take power from any circuit you want that is hot when the ignition is on. Since it's a Voltmeter, it's pretty easy to wire.
I set mine up to read like this being the powermaster puts out a regulated 13.2 volts and that should center the needle in the gauge. Not really that noticable at all.This is at 12.75 volts.Like I mentioned you can adjust the needle starting point on the voltmeter. The needle right now sits a bit higher than the other bottomed out gauges. Also the face place is overlaped by the fuel gauge faceplate, so that hold it in place as well.Here's how she looks with the cluster lense installed.You cannot notice any kind of modifications from the outside.The need can be adjusted for a different starting point by just turning a little cam on the backside of the magnet on the guage. One this meter is secured from the backside, it doesn't budge so I didn't secure in any other manner from the inside.
Now, if you want to call their tech department and have a pissing matchWith their engineering department about the basics of automotive charging/regulation parameters, go for it.As far as you statement about the same charging voltage, I don't know where you are going with that. So, around idle, the volt gauge should center. With a 3:1 Ratio, that's roughly 800RPM on the engine side. Hope it helps some one out someday.Hey, I took the time to add to this post so maybe someone could use it down the road, stating facts as well as real information from a vendors site.Again, those are factoral specifications from Powermaster, not some conjoured up little chart I made up for my own health. I know for me this really gives me a good piece of mind I don't have to worry about any issues in that area any more. I also plan on drilling out the male/female connection in the bulhead for the wire coming in, run the wire straight through, solder together and heat shrink install a inline fuse.So there it is.If you were thinking about spending the $150-$200 after shipping with Redline (nothing against them), here's another option where you'll spend about $17 bucks on the voltmeter and maybe an hour or two depending on your skill level.
Yes I can read chyrsler's shop manual, but again.and please read s.l.o.w.l.y.this is not a chrysler product! That makes two times i've told you that. Arguing with a woman? LOL Well, you could be on my end and be arguing with a someone with a childs mentality. I guess it's no news flash. I bought and own the product, and will be installing it on my carWow.some people really are this dense. My 13.2 volts at idle compared to the older 12V generator systems (that ran lead acid batteries), is 10 steps ahead of the 8.9 volts some systems would run at idle.Now, if you want to further research this, make calls, write a book.I really don't care.
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Hope it works out well for you.
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